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Bordeaux 2008: day three

Today was our sweep of the right bank, and we’ve continued to be impressed by the quality of the wines.

In St-Emilion, the large Union des Grands Crus tasting was a typically mixed bag, but in general we were pleased. As with the left bank the day before, there was a generally good purity of fruit, the primary difference between the successes and failures being handling in the winery; we bang this drum every year, but some wines are still being extracted too hard making disjointed wines with hints of bitterness. The best wines had a lovely lushness, ripe fruit and good refreshing acidity.

We  also visited a few top producers individually. Pavie will likely divide opinion again, being back to the super-concentrated, full-on style which has proved so controversial in previous vintages.

Many of the Pomerols were lovely as well, with the lushness that is typically associated with this appellation clearly in evidence. We spotted a few potentially good value wines at the UGC tasting and enjoyed rewarding visits to Vieux-Château-Certan and my personal favourite Clos l’Eglise.

We also had a terrific tasting with Christian and Edouard Moueix. Their suite of properties have again delivered, with a signature elegance and lightness of touch clearly in evidence. La Fleur Petrus and Hosanna are wines we follow year-in-year-out and that are lovely again. Certan-de-May stood out with a richer style and will please fans of the property.

Our final day tomorrow sees us finish off with Graves and Sauternes; updates during the day on Twitter and I’ll try and post a complete wrap up from the car or the airport in the afternoon.

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